Cuilcagh is a huge sprawling mountain of genuine geographical significance: it is the highest point on the border as well as the highest point in both Cavan and Fermanagh, and the source of the mighty Shannon lies on its slopes. It presents a conspicuous roof-like appearance from the north-east and south-west, and while much of its area is blanket bog and tough moorland, the mountain's edges are often starkly scarped.

There are various (and variable, of which more later) routes to the top. A good way is to traverse the lesser Arderin of Benbeg from the south: leave the road through the Bellavally Gap at H11960 24491 A (decent parking a short distance west), follow the access track to the transmitter just below Benbeg's summit, pass the enclosure on its right before a short climb leads up to the ridge, from where the majestic east-facing scarp is followed on intermittent paths (and considerable muck) to the top of Cuilcagh with its trig column and huge tumulus.

A rougher way can be made from the Gortlughany Viewpoint car park (H16770 30037 B), following the markers for the Ulster Way over much boggy ground. Another route comes in from H079280 C at the townland of Eshveagh on the western side, passing the cliffs of Tiltinbane which are the highest source of the Shannon.

If the presence of crowds is desired, then the mountain can be visited using the Legnabrocky Trail, a gravel track that gives way to an obvious boardwalked section higher up. The rationale behind the boardwalk is to protect the blanket bog it crosses, but it remains deeply controversial due to its environmental impact (both visually and in terms of a footfall that has increased twentyfold since its opening). It should also be noted that the boardwalk ends a fair distance from the summit, and that access beyond the viewing area at its top is strongly discouraged owing to the erosion and littering that has taken place.

Surrounded by lowlands and with considerable isolation from higher ground, the views from Cuilcagh are incredibly extensive. Linkback: https://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/4925/

Cuilcagh is the only county top to straddle Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland and, lying on the boundary between counties Fermanagh and Cavan, is also part of the world’s first international Geopark: the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark (2008). Cuilcagh’s distinctive table top plateau is comprised of gritstone, uncommon in Ireland, eroded into dramatic cliffs and rugged rocky outcrops that sweep down to lower sandstone and shale slopes which tail off into large expanses of upland blanket bog. Below this is limestone, with its mysterious sinkholes and extensive cave systems. In view of the turbulent past of this area, the Geopark is a fine example of cross border co-operation and peaceful coexistence using the landscape as a vehicle for recreation, education and reconciliation.

The day held little promise, with rain in the air, oppressive with humidity and the pungent smell of turf, as we set off up a track at H13385 24714 D towards Benbeg. Three figures moved steadily out on the bog, hurriedly loading bags of peat into a tractor trailer, as we left the track for steep ground skirting the edge of forestry. Thick mats of sphagnum moss entangled with heather and bilberry made the going tough. Above the forestry we traversed the edge of a corrie with steep shaly slopes of honey coloured rock beneath Benbeg. The summit is unremarkable with no cairn, but the views compensate, especially the long sweeping ridge we were to cross, with Cuilcagh at the end, moody and shrouded in cloud.

Gaining the ridge involved traversing undulating boggy ground, picking a way through a maze of eroded peat hags, then a short scramble over gritstone outcrops. On the ridge the sun broke through the cloud with almost supernatural radiance, illuminating Cuilcagh’s trig point that protruded from its distinctive mound, resembling the breast of a slumbering mountain goddess. The wind driven mist billowed like smoke up over the sheer cliff edge. The rocky summit plateau is a delight. Outcrops of gritstone are weathered into intricate patterns, some slabs of it encrusted with quartz pebbles from an ancient deluge. Strange crevices, 20 ft deep that disappear, choked with glacial debris, before reappearing, harbour huge ferns.

The cloud had now lifted, offering fine views of cornflower blue Lough Atona nestled at the foot of craggy cliffs set amid the russet and green of bog and heather. Towards the NE were small hills, ancient limestone reef knolls, and near pristine blanket bog with pools of water that sparkled merrily in the feeble sunlight.

To avoid the same return route, we scrambled down a steep cliff gully H11602 27151 E, heading across uneven boggy ground of reeds and knee high heather, jumping several small streams, for the edge of the forestry below Benbeg. At H12544 26110 F we crossed a barbed wire fence by a tree stump, using forestry paths to return to our car, grateful for our 12 km odyssey through part of the North and South’s acclaimed Geopark. Linkback: https://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/6447/

Climbed 5.6.04 starting at Cuilagh Mountain Park near to Marble Arch Caves (121336 G). There is a large sink hole here but very difficult to see down into due to vegetation. Cross stile and follow track. Just after crossing bridge take "floating path" off to right, this soon ends but continue in westerly direction to pick up course of Sruh Croppa River after half hour. Follow winding course of river through gully with nice waterfall and past some ruined settlements. As near summit of Tiltinbane (596m) climb away from river to the right to avoid steep gullies. Follow fenceline up to the summit - the final section is quite steep and may require use of hands. A depression next to summit cairn is perfect shelter for a brew. There are extensive views from the summit ridge - north and west towards Sligo Bay and big hills which i think were the Nephin Beg Mountains in Mayo and south over Iron Mountains. Follow path which keeps close to northern cliffs, passing fissures in rock and Lough Atona ,reaching large summit cairn after 1.5 hour walk along summit.
Had intended to return by Ulster Way between Trien and Benaughlin (marker posts just visible) but shortened journey by heading north over moor following river courses back to the track at the bridge. A long walk at 6.5 hours but rewarding with plenty of interest and some good views.

The approach from the S via Benbeg is perhaps more rewarding - it cuts out a long approach through moorland and has a fine sweeping ridge with a very different perspective on the mountain (see Benbeg for this walk). Linkback: https://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/995/

Cuilcagh is sulky. Set amid a demented geology of flint-hard upcrops and punctured limestone downdrops, it rides an undefined bog track between Fermanagh Lakeland and Free State moorland, middle-distant coastland and edgy Border badland. And the common denominator that binds all its diverse little bits is …… water; lots of it. In fact, I suspect all the seven seas of planet earth drain into Cuilcagh. Evidence? I was there on Saturday! Cra has been snared - by a Spartan Red Sock, one of the numerous upshots of which was to join this cheery troupe of sauntering track rats on their entirely unexplained outing to “Sulky”: unexplained that is, until we got dried out and into many hours of Halloween revelry in the Carry Bridge. Not built for speed - but these boys ARE built for stamina. Cuilcagh sloshes around on the Fermanagh Cavan border, Vistas to the western coast, south to The Iron Mountains and inland to more water are allegedly stunning. Sadly on this jaunt, all stunning was effected on bum bones when fleeing heels regularly brought bog and buttock into crunching contact. The track is so damp in places that the good people of some outdoor philanthropic persuasion have underlaid it with black plastic to give you some chance of progressing ahead rather than down. The thing about Cuilcagh bog is - it is an unique pristine blanket bog, uncut, untouched - made by nature, with springs meandering through it, ecosystems living in it, the Autumn remnants of fantastical flora soaking in it, a siren to bog-fanciers - and a must, to be continued in the heat and relative drouth of next summer. Follow your nose from Lisbellaw to Belcoo and pick up the Cuilcagh carpark enroute. Thanks to the Red Necks for a great day. Linkback: https://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/2027/