[RWD version 1 ] In May 2024, we travelled to the island of Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal situated in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of west Africa. The island, of volcanic derivation, is sub-tropical and offers spectacular hiking. We decided to backpack with our tent across the island from east to west, taking in two of its highest peaks, Pico du Arieiro (1,818m) and Pico Ruivo (1,861m). Our trek covered over 110km and more than 5,000 metres of ascent (and descent).
The trek took us a week and most days averaged around 15 kilometres. There are a multitude of routes one can take across the island, many following the levadas, or irrigation systems for which Madeira is famous, and you can create your own route to suit your needs. Camping is only allowed at designated campsites which have a limited number of pitches. Camping permits are free but must be booked in advance from the Madeiran authorities. Wardens do patrol and those caught wildcamping can be fined. There are a few hostels and hotels along the route, but camping is needed in most cases, unless you take long and steep detours down to the coast for accommodation.
We were blessed with fabulous weather and, as it was spring, the flowers were absolutely magnificent. This was a truly thrilling challenge, the hardest unsupported trek we have done anywhere in the world, and one that will remain indelibly etched in our memories.
You can see a video of our trek on youtube: https://youtu.be/Hlbz8_M7BbA