A hidden gem

After descending the track below Kanturk (D (O13223 04310)) through a shadowy, dank conifer forest it was a delight to find oneself at a copse of old oak trees. Beneath their leafy boughs the sunshine filtered through the leaves stirred constantly by the wind to trace lacy patterns on the ground. With the nearby Inchavore River tumbling melodically over granite boulders and swirling through deep pools of water, it would not be hard to imagine this magical place as the abode of water nymphs and fairies. It is a fine place to rough camp and we were impressed that those who had done so had left no rubbish behind.

Suitably rested we crossed the river, stepping across the tops of boulders to the rough boggy ground opposite. Great caution must be exercised here for hidden rivulets are barely discernable amid long grass and tussocks. Following a fence uphill, avoiding boggy ground where possible, we headed NE towards the rocky summit. The Inchavore River with its swirls and curves of ancient oxbow lakes, faint outlines of former cottages and the gravelly finger of spoil heap spilling downhill from an old mine working on Kanturk’s slope, provide interesting views.

The brooding hulk of Tonelagee slipped steadily into view as we ascended, the clouds surrounding it turning an ominous battleship grey. Then its summit disappeared from view, lost in cloud. The wind increased and large drops of rain began to fall. We trudged onwards, the wind lashing the rain horizontally into our rear. Near the top the bracken and heather became denser and some light scrambling over granite boulders brought us eventually to the summit cairn. Even in rain, the majesty of these mountains is undimmed, the angry cloud rumbling and boiling over their summits.

Upon descending the wind suddenly dropped and we found ourselves in a rain shadow. All was absolutely still and silent apart from the croaky cries of ravens and the yelp of deer that we disturbed as we entered their realm, the wild and lonely Cloghoge Valley. Mesmerised by the beauty of this place, we watched as several herd of deer bounded effortlessly towards the brook, appearing to dance over the heather, while the cloud on the slopes of Luggala, Carrigvore and Gravale hung like smoke, the pungent smell of bracken and dank earth heightening our senses.

We then followed an old peat road down to the point where a bridge crosses the Cloghoge Brook and took the paved road towards the Pier Gates which gives fine views of the cliffs of Luggala and passes properties once connected to the surrounding estates. Near the top of the road the sun slipped below the cloud to bathe the Cloghoge Valley and Knocknacloghoge in a golden glow, igniting the heather on a nearby knoll, this epic scene completed by the silhouette of a gnarled may tree. The heavens erupted into a riot of colour as we stood spellbound, grateful for the fickleness of the weather that had made us feel truly alive that afternoon in the wilds of Wicklow. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/386/comment/6042/

Read Less

GWPR on Knocknacloghoge

Start at the Pier Gates above Lough Tay and descend tarmac road to second wooden bridge on way to Lough Dan. Cloghoge Brook flows under this second bridge so cross bridge and go through metal gate on your right and follow brook upwards on your right. The brook falls through miniature ravines with many impressive waterfalls and deep pools. The colour here in the Autumn is magnificent! At it’s upper reaches the brook levels out and it’s a tough slog through the heather to reach Knocknaclogoge on the left. The views from the summit down to Lough Dan are fabulous. I have descended from the cliffs south of the summit with difficulty by keeping to the right. However the views down to the Inchavore River and its entrance to Lough Dan at the ‘Oasis’ make it worthwhile. Here,an island of sand with trees in autumn colour make a beautiful scene. If descending to the Oasis follow track along the eastern lake shore to reach a white house and from here there is a distinct track back to the bridge at Cloghoge Brook. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/386/comment/243/

Read Less

Doug Lane on Knocknacloghoge

Be wary of the track on the Eastern shore of Lough Dan. In David Herman's book, Hill Walkers Wicklow, he writes, "...a delightful path materialises along the shore of Lough Dan". The path is ANYTHING but delightful. It has become completely overgrown with gorse and ferns. Both of which hide eroded drop-offs and leave you scratched to bits. Do not attempt it if you are wearing shorts or a t-shirt, or waterproofs (unless you don't want them to remain waterproof).

It's really too bad because it's a sting in the tail of an otherwise enjoyable hike. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/386/comment/600/

gdempsey on Knocknacloghoge

I would echo Doug Lane's comments about this mountain - quote a decent hike / nice view from top but the descent to Lough Dan is treacherous / heavy undergrowth / almost broke my ankle in 2004 at the height of the summer when the heather and gorse were very high. Would also like to meet David Herman who wrote that book on hikes in Wicklow, and ask him what's pleasant about the last stage back towards the starting point - that path along the lakeshore is not in good condition and the gorse will rip the skin off you if you're wearing shorts. But hey, that's the great outdoors for you! Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/386/comment/1836/

Read Less