This might hurt

Like 1950s dentistry, my pursuit of the Vandeleur-Lynams over 30 years is rarely elegant and sometimes painful. I knew that eventually I would have to climb Stumpa a’ tSaimh. This hill had tortured my dreams. Sadly, my grumbling chums stayed in Kildare, while I ventured to Cronin’s yard. I slept fitfully through an impressive lightening storm, witnessing the gods throwing bolts around the Reeks. Being what the Scots call a “Feartie”, I arranged for Richard, a local to help me. The rain was easing, but the Hags glen remained clagged in as we set off up the Com road. We cut right on the trail, as if making for O’Shea’s gully. The track took us under the confusingly named Hag’s tooth (543m). What is it with the limited use of names on our hills? The Hag seems to have been blessed by some magical dentistry, because there are multiple incisors, canines and molars all over Kerry. It was the other “Tooth” I wanted. We pressed on, Richard striding purposefully forward, me doing my best to keep up. Beyond Glaise Fhionnchom, we turned right (point D) onto a vague grassy track NW up what is known locally as Green/Holly tree gully- what Simon3 describes as “One way up”. The steep and grassy path meandered between the rocks, ascending to the shattered fragments of the real Tooth- Stumpa a’ tSaimh. This was tough but the rain had stopped, the wind was much reduced, and the clouds were breaking.
As the slope eased, we did a “Kerry contour” (ie an ascent on slightly less rocky ground) to the NE of the tower and worked our way up to an airy vantage point just West of the final summit and which fell away steeply North. A short corridor took us to the base of summit proper. Here Richard talked me up the short, but exposed scramble until my hands at least could tap the top. The small patch of summit grass was sodden, and the wind noticeable enough to make me wish I had worn darker trousers. Reader, I didn’t stand on the occlusal surface-I remained a “Feartie”, but I don’t care. I still have a handful of VLs to do and I intend to be around to do them. Again, Richard guided me on the short but exposed descent of the distal surface, and we admired Brother O’Shea’s gully and the impressive, but lesser known East ridge of Beenkeeragh. In an adrenaline-fueled haze, we ambled into the Fionnchom bowl, South of Knockbrinnea. It was only midday, so we had lunch in good sunshine on some convenient boulders, watched by the impassive sheep. A lovely descent (Simon & Jackill’s other route) took us down the canyon of Glaise Fhionnchom. I was elated as we hit the trail after some boggy interludes and retraced our steps to Cronin’s yard. There I reflected on irrational fears of scrambling. All had been forgotten in good company. Yes, it was sodden under foot, and windier than I’d have liked, but like a trip to the dentist it was less frightening than I’d imagined, and I was better for the visit. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/193/comment/24204/

Read Less

Scramblers heaven

The direct route up Stumpa an tSaimh and its obvious continuation up the East Ridge of Beenkeragh gives you around 600m of rock, mostly fairly continuous, mostly solid and with great friction. Start just above where the Heavenly Gates path clambers up a little rock step and head right up typical Kerry slabs and shelves with lots of options to a bigger grass shelf below the peak proper. Get onto slabs left of centre and go up right via a little chimney to the skyline, then try to keep to it. Most of it is Grade 2 scrambling, although very airy in places, but there are a couple of harder bits. Memorable are a committing move up left (jammed runner when I was there) and a slightly leaning prow, which has good jugs a little to its left (above a huge drop, falling doesn't bear thinking about). Above this things get easier, but the ridge gets even narrower and quite Alpine feeling. The summit of Stumpa an tSaimh itself is tiny, a spectacular spot. Descent is easiest by going back down a few feet, then using ledges on the north side. There's a lovely sharp slabby arete a bit further on with a steep descent at the far end, easier than it looks but easily avoided on the right. After the col the East Ridge of Beenkeragh is a fun dessert, with lots of optional craglets and pinnacles, gradually easing towards the summit. Then you've still got the Beenkeragh to Corran Tuathail ridge to come, more joy! Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/193/comment/18730/

Read Less

murphysw on Hag's Tooth

After climbing Knockbrinnea we descended to the Hags Glen by the stream which runs right by the Hag's Tooth. The stream runs down through a gully near the tooth so care is needed but we found it to be quite safe, although as I mentioned in my comments on Beenkeragh and Knockbrinnea the area is very boulder strewn so watch where you step. If I had known that the tooth was counted as a peak on this site I would have bagged it as we passed right by it! It actually would make the end of an interesting horseshoe for those parked in Cronin's. Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh, Both Knockbrinneas, and finally Stoompeenaduff (although I dont think I would descend to Stoompeenaduff in wet weather). Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/193/comment/1841/

Read Less

jackill on Hag's Tooth

Some Sundays I get up at 5am to climb a mountain which as you can imagine has caused much debate on my sanity with my wife (who is a mental health nurse, I kid you not!)can you imagine though arriving at Lisleibane at 8am to find cars there before you? madder or closer than me I hope.I approached the Tooth using the standard track to the Heavenly gates/O'Sheas and then ascending the gully mentioned by Conor74, the final scramble to the summit was difficult due to the patches of very slippery wet snow, and you'll need to say hello to a place called vertigo and no wind to stand on the summit(or more probably sit). But you'll probably be alone and on one of the most exciting ridges in Ireland.Of all the approaches to high mountains that I've climbed this challenges the best. I have said this only once before in my MV "career", if you haven't been here before get in the car now and go. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/193/comment/4580/

Read Less

Above the clouds

The Hag's Tooth taken from the top of Beenkeragh. You can just make out 2 climbers to the right of the tooth. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/193/comment/6237/

Read Less