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Binn an tSaighdiúra Mountain (Ir. Binn an tSaighdiúra [TR], 'peak of the soldier') Galway County in Connacht Province, in Irish Best Hundred List, Pale quartzites, grits, graphitic top Bedrock

Height: 653m OS 1:50k Mapsheet: 37 Grid Reference: L81181 52850
Place visited by 183 members. Recently by: thrifleganger, abcd, ShayGlynn, hivisibility, Liamob, conorjob, justynagru, Tran, jackill, Aciddrinker, Mike-Mor, rollingwave, OisinD, Haulie, Lauranna
I have visited this place: NO (You need to be a logged-in member to change this.)

Longitude: -9.79182, Latitude: 53.512372 , Easting: 81181, Northing: 252850 Prominence: 8m,  Isolation: 0.5km
ITM: 481158 752870,   GPS IDs, 6 char: Bna653, 10 char: BnantSghdú
Bedrock type: Pale quartzites, grits, graphitic top, (Bennabeola Quartzite Formation)

It is said that a sapper from the Ordnance Survey fell to his death here during survey work on the first 6 map series in the 1830s.   Binn an tSaighdiúra is the 190th highest place in Ireland.

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Small bump on the way somewhere else .. by group   (Show all for Binn an tSaighdiúra)
Binn an tSaighdiúra via Carrot Ridge .. by kernowclimber   (Show all for Binn an tSaighdiúra)
Binn an tSaighdiúra is about 15 mins from Bencorr .. by csd   (Show all for Binn an tSaighdiúra) Picture about mountain Binn an tSaighdiúra in area Twelve Bens, Ireland
Picture: On the final scramble above the Second Step
Carrot Ridge - a tasty route on Binn an tSaigdiúra
by mcrtchly  15 Apr 2010
There are few easy ways to climb the Twelve Bens but why take an easy way when there is a more challenging route? In this case the challenge was Carrot Ridge which snakes up the northern face of Binn an tSaigdiúra (a subsidiary peak of Ben Corr). Carrot Ridge is the longest rock climb in Ireland and some say one of the best ridge climbs at its grade (Difficult) in the British Isles. A good description of Carrot Ridge can be found in Dan Bailey’s book “The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland - Scrambles and Climbs” published by Cicerone in 2009.

On a glorious sunny day on 10th April 2010 we parked near to the bridge over the Tooreenacoona River on the R334 and then walked along the road northwards for about a kilometre before taking a farm track/footpath which leads SW into the Gleninagh Valley. About 2km from the R334 we left the footpath and veered southwards across the Gleninagh River before walking steeply up the lower slopes of Binn an tSaigdiúra and Bencorrbeg to the foot of Carrot Ridge at L811 532 F. Then it was time to don our climbing gear – harness, helmet, climbing shoes, slings, nuts and a climbing rope. Carrot Ridge although at the lower grade of climbing is still a serious undertaking and the correct equipment and experience is needed.

This was my first serious rock climb after nearly a 30 year gap and as leader I felt a bit of apprehension before starting the climb. The first two pitches of Carrot Ridge (each of about 25m) follow the pinkish quartzite slab at the base of the climb. The second pitch proved the trickiest with a Very Difficult move from the belay position above the first pitch into a groove on the right. Once in the groove the going got better but there is little protection for the leader on this 25m pitch. The third and fourth pitches are quite easy and lead to a short traverse, a corner below the First Step. The corner is easily climbed (fifth pitch) and is followed a short walk to a 15m chimney (sixth pitch). Climbing the chimney proved to be perhaps the most difficult bit of the climb, partly because the rucksacks on our backs made the tactic of back-and-footing up the chimney almost impossible. We had to revert to hand jamming in the chimney crack and groping for scarce handholds on the rock at the top of the chimney.

After much exertion the chimney was passed and we relaxed awhile before scrambling for the next 90m across a pleasant ridge crest to the foot of the seventh and final pitch below the Second Step. The seventh pitch is about 44m long and as our rope was only 40m long, we divided the pitch into two parts with a belay stance after breaching the wall of the Second Step at its lowest point. After this it was an easy scramble to the top of the climb. Moving at a leisurely pace, the climb took us about 4 hours. Carrot Ridge is a must for anyone who has the experience and equipment to climb it but wait for a good dry day as I suspect the rock would be slippery when wet. Linkback:
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Binn an tSaighdiura lies just a 5 minute walk fro .. by mreeyore   (Show all for Binn an tSaighdiúra)
While going around the Derryclare Horseshoe you c .. by simon3   (Show all for Binn an tSaighdiúra)
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