Cuilcagh is a huge sprawling mountain of genuine geographical significance: it is the highest point on the border as well as the highest point in both Cavan and Fermanagh, and the source of the mighty Shannon lies on its slopes. It presents a conspicuous roof-like appearance from the north-east and south-west, and while much of its area is blanket bog and tough moorland, the mountain's edges are often starkly scarped.

There are various (and variable, of which more later) routes to the top. A good way is to traverse the lesser Arderin of Benbeg from the south: leave the road through the Bellavally Gap at H11960 24491 A (decent parking a short distance west), follow the access track to the transmitter just below Benbeg's summit, pass the enclosure on its right before a short climb leads up to the ridge, from where the majestic east-facing scarp is followed on intermittent paths (and considerable muck) to the top of Cuilcagh with its trig column and huge tumulus.

A rougher way can be made from the Gortlughany Viewpoint car park (H16770 30037 B), following the markers for the Ulster Way over much boggy ground. Another route comes in from H079280 C at the townland of Eshveagh on the western side, passing the cliffs of Tiltinbane which are the highest source of the Shannon.

If the presence of crowds is desired, then the mountain can be visited using the Legnabrocky Trail, a gravel track that gives way to an obvious boardwalked section higher up. The rationale behind the boardwalk is to protect the blanket bog it crosses, but it remains deeply controversial due to its environmental impact (both visually and in terms of a footfall that has increased twentyfold since its opening). It should also be noted that the boardwalk ends a fair distance from the summit, and that access beyond the viewing area at its top is strongly discouraged owing to the erosion and littering that has taken place.

Surrounded by lowlands and with considerable isolation from higher ground, the views from Cuilcagh are incredibly extensive. Linkback: https://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/4925/