A little-visited outpost

About 14km from Roonagh quay, Inishturk vies with Tory for the title of our most remote inhabited outpost. The last census gave the population as 53.

There were just four people on the ferry when I went over in July. Two trails are marked from the main village, a cluster of cottages around the island's beautiful, natural harbour. The trails are described on www.mayotrails.ie.

We followed the purple trail from the harbour, out of the village and up through a gate onto rough commonage. Just after the gate, you can turn right and take a quick hike up the clifftop for a precipitous view, fulmars circling in the void below.

We headed back down from the cliff and followed the purple trail onwards to wee Lough Coolaknick, then veered the trail off up to the SIgnal tower on the hill above, right beside the the island's highest point. Views from the islands off Connemara and Mayo always present a spectacular panorama of the mountains from the Bens and Maamturks in the south, and north to Clare Island, Achill and the Nephins.

Next we headed west over rough commonage to the 100m+ cliffs at the back (west side) of the island, then followed the cliffs south west — this, the island's wild and exposed side, is its highlight. It's a shame the marked trails only briefly visit it. But terrain is quite knobbly and confusing — one second I was sure I was well in from the cliff's edge, a few steps forward and I was standing on the edge of oblivion. And the cliffs cut in and out of the coast, so proceed carefully.

Once we passed the promonotory of Dromore Head we turned inland, following a stream and some small lakes up to a stone wall. We turned left here, following the wall (keeping it on our right) through the damp grassy interior of the island until it rejoined the purple trail and landed at the island's wild and rough GAA pitch. We followed the trail back to a paved boreen, but took a short detour to visit Portdoon — a beautiful natural harbour accessed only by a currach-wide channel through rocky cliffs. Legend has it Danish pirates used this cove as a base to ambush ships passing along the coast.

From here's its a straightforward road walk back to the pier — if you fancy a swim you'll pass two stunning beaches on the way, and the pub too. Our route took us a leisurely 4-5 hours.

A few final things: The lack of big hills keeps our western islands relatively dry, with showers usually passing over quite quickly, then letting loose on inland mountains. So if it's raining in the hills, consider the islands rather than turning home.

OSI Discovery Series 37 offers scant detail for little Inishturk, but there's a highly detailed map available on the island — try the boat, or the development office (same building as the pub/shop), the post office or any of the B&Bs for it.

The route mapped here almost exactly matches my own, and will show you most of the island http://www.walkingworldireland.com/Walking_World_Ireland/Inishturk.html Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1041/comment/14817/

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Mountain Common on 2.3.2012

A lovely day trip to Inishturk to ascend Mountain Common. Take the island ferry from Roonah quay (R378, west of Louisburg Co. Mayo). It is advisable to check the time table with the operator, especially when traveling off season.

There is a signposted walk called Inishturk Loop. Start on the tarmac road to the top of the village, go through the metal gate and continue on the stony track till the western edge near the cliffs. No houses around, only stunning views!

At an old stone wall make your way over the ridge, a moderate grassy slope, to the top of Mountain Common. The old signal tower (ruin) is on a rocky outcrop and a provides good marker as well as shelter from the wind.

The views to the west (the Atlantic) are quite spectacular. The photo depicts the trig, looking towards the Co. Mayo coastline, Caher island (uninhabited) in between. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1041/comment/6753/

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Your ferry awaits!

The road to both Inishturk and Clare Island ends at Roonagh Quay where you take the ferry to the islands to begin your climb. Phone A (G08685 15003) or log on www.clareislandferry.com for sailing times. My day on Inishturk was spectacular not only for the lovely climb, but the wildlife and fauna that abounds there. Choughs, Wheatears, Plovers, Puffins and cliffs filled with nesting Fulmars and Auks. The ferry trip across also revealed Gannets, Razorbills, Great Northern Divers and a solitary Manx Shearwater. The plant life was also rich, but despite taking photos, I've yet to identify many of them. A visit to the Inishturk Community Centre for refreshments and information leaflets and chats with the islanders is a must too. A truly spectacular day out! Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1041/comment/6774/

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Art beside lake, col and hill.

There's just a few places where the built environment flashes into view and actually enhances the landscape. Oulart Hill of the modern megalithic tomb is one.

Another is "The Tale of the Tongs" a creation of Travis Price III in collaboration with The Catholic University of America's School of Architecture and Planning. It consists of a glass house with open ends and surrounding glass pillars each with one of the six family names of the island.

There's an article about it at http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/B (L1584 7956)/list/An-Irish-Island-Gets-a-Most-Meaningful-Installation which also includes pictures of the installation at night and some irreverent comments. Apparently the place is lit at night. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1041/comment/17538/

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Off-the-beaten-track

On the island, there are two well-marked walking/hiking trails. The trail-head is located at a gable wall 50m from pier. From the trail-head follow the surfaced road for 100m past the church (on your right). There is the shorter trail that sweeps around the island past Loch Cúil a Chnoic in an anti-clockwise direction but the longer trail is superior, offering up some wonderful scenery from the cliffs at the rear of the island.

One of the island’s most interesting sights, “The Spirit of Place Sculpture”, designed and built by American architect Travis Price. This is the first point of interest – planted in a fascinating and panoramic location for a post-modern piece of sculpture. It's a poignant dedication to the families of Inishturk and the ideal place to sit down and gaze out at the sea.

The Signal Tower is directly above the Travis Price sculpture and it's a steep climb to the top but the rewards are amazing with breathtaking scenery. Achill Island, Croagh Patrick and the north Connemara mountains in one uninterrupted sweeping vista. The signal tower itself was built during 1805-1806 by local labour and rises 722 feet above sea level. There were 82 towers built finishing on Malin Head no 82. Inishturk was no 57. The system used was a heliograph or steel plate polished to reflect the rays of the sun to passing ships, the first Morse code to discourage Napoleonic invasion during the Napoleonic Wars (18 May 1803 – 20 November 1815)

The Cliffs: These are only on show if taking the longer trail. This is as rugged as it gets and thankfully one of the island inhabitants had the foresight to erect a seating bench right at the cliffs! On a fine summer's day in Ireland - it doesn't get any better than this. It's idyllic.

Inishturk Football (GAA) Pitch: Surrounded by rocky mountains on three sides, it's a football pitch that appears out of nowhere as you’re coming up the road. A natural amphitheatre – it is perhaps one of the most unique sporting facilities in the country.

Port An Dun: Another noteworthy site worth visiting. A natural secluded lagoon that provided the ideal cover for the Norse raiding parties. Port An Dun is right of the football pitch and many take a dip into its tempting waters on a fine day.

Two great beaches near the Inishturk Community Centre: Tranaun and Curran beaches. Unspoilt with crystal clear blue water another ideal place to swim or just watch the sun go down on what locals claim to be the best views around.

Caher Island: Charter a boat (50 euro approx) and visit the nearby wondrous uninhabited Caher Island. The island has an Early Christian monastery with the remains of a chapel in an enclosure and several carved slabs Inishturk Community Centre: The ideal place to finish up the day (sitting outside) with a pint of Guinness surrounded by a striking kaleidoscope of natural beauty Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1041/comment/19831/

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