Once Upon a Time in the West

Back in the mists of time (well 1996 anyway, before there were any access restrictions) I did the same as Mike Foyle and made the detour to the top of the Skellig. As far as I can remember it was easy as far as the hermit's hut (which had a brilliantly simple system for keeping grit out of the water supply), then it got much steeper and quite intimidating. I recall a steep chimney on big holds, then the exposure on the summit was absolutely gobsmacking. A knife edged spar of rock projects over the void and apparently there used to be a cross out on the end of it which pilgrims had to go out and kiss. The cross had gone by the time I visited but I couldn't resist edging out to the end - on my backside with one leg either side, no way was I doing it standing up! The descent seemed oddly easier than going up, then I tagged on to the talk and tour at the monastery before we had to make a rapid exit as the wind got up. The journey back was fairly bouncy, and several times I was thrown up into the air as I hung onto a rail. The whole island is an amazing place, stunning scenery and historically fascinating. St Kilda is the only place I've ever been that compares, and even that doesn't have the same "perched in the sky" feel. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1031/comment/18740/

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wellaway on Skellig Michael

Reading comments about the boat to the Skellig Rock, re-ignited the horror of my trip in 1969/70. Arriving in Valentia on a cold n wet September evening I headed for the old coastguard station which served as the An Oige hostel.
The following morning a motley crew of 2 Germen women,a yankee couple (F&M) a Dublin civil servant & self, set off from the pier in a small outboard powered boat, skippered by an ancient local, assisted by his red haired and red cheeked nephew from Dublin. Going out the narrow channel the morning cleared and we had glorious sunshine with a glentle swell to lull us on our way.
Not too long after hitting the open seas things got a bit rough and soon we were in a bad way as the swell put the boat into one eighty degree rolls. One second you're staring straight down at one of the Germem women and the next she is screaming and heading straight down for you, only for her two hands locked onto the gunwale The power of prayer quickly takes over and I rattled off the Hail Marys with the odd Salve Regina rasped out for good measure.
Landing on Skellig was the usual 8 to 12 foot swell and a judicious jump as the boat breasts the pier. Sad to relate, I was only able to creep up the path to the lighthouse and spend the afternoon listening to tales of disasters befalling tourists to the island, from the two keepers.
After an uneventual embarking from Skellig we recommenced our prayers and chanting and surviving. It wasdifficult to judge whether the salt water was the cause of the staining on passengers trousers or not. It certainly was'nt the cause of mine.
Anyway skipper seemed to steer the boat inside a big rock, attempting to escape the worst of the weather and suddenly there was a bang as the boat gave a shudder and the outboard cut. I was up with the oar which was beneath me, when the skipper glared at me and told me to sit the fXXX down. The nephew was tearing away at the starter chord without effect and boat was tossing allover the place. Boy was I fXXXed.
Looking back, I think I just increased the rate of Hail Marys and the outboard restarted. After maneuvering and steadying the boat through the swell we recomenced out trip from hell. Suddenly we were in the channel and landing at the pier. I you tell no lie, but when pipey rose the outboard from the water, he showed us where only two blades were left on the prop.
Our trip to the hostel was broken by four large whiskeys in the Hotel bar and a crawl off to bed. I hitched away the following day and when passing the church on the crossroads outside Waterville I aked the driver to leave me off and I went in payed my dues for my salvation.
I have never had the courage to return even in this age of fast ferrys with all their modern safety aids.
And all that happened in the autum when I first climbed Ben Lettery, Lug, Errigal and the hill over Rossbeigh on the strenght of my tumb. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1031/comment/3358/

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Alaskan on Skellig Michael

I went to Skellig Michael a couple years ago before fences, signs and the restrictive hand landed upon the isle. I'd heard of the trail to the south summit but when I scrambled up to the saddle above Christ Saddle, the route upwards was well camouflaged by the grays of the cliff and the smatterings of moss. Exploration led to a few steps carved into the rock which led to a bit of a ledge. Easy enough if you didn't mind a modicum of exposure. Many reached the ledge but fewer crossed it that day. The ledge, on which one adventurer ended up spread-eagled against the wall, led to some old, well-worn steps carved in the stone. Again, for those who don't mind a drop it they aren't a big deal. But of those who passed the ledge, few mounted the stairs. Beyond the stairs is a thin trail across moss then a jump up some steep, partly moss-covered steps. These steps, which turned back even more pilgrims, led to the Keyhole, a fun 20-foot chimney. Not that difficult if you like 3-foot-wide cracks with nice views of the plunge to the sea. No one passed the Keyhole that day. Including me, alone that I was. I've always wanted to see what was above the Keyhole. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1031/comment/3355/

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Monks are not stupid - great piece of nature in the middle of the sea

We climbed this world heritage hill on June 13th 2011 -very sunny and hot day. Needless to say this site is world class and offers stunning views from all sides.
It is highly recommended to book your boat trip the day before, certainly when beautiful weather is announced. Only 15 boats a day are allowed to disembark some 150 people max in order to preserve the monk's site and the fragile ecosystem .
Climbing the monk's steps is not that difficult. On the Christ's saddle one should take right to the monastery. Going left up the south peak is prohibited but I couldn't resist it. Below picture is taken from the small saddle up left from Christ's saddle. You can see the north peak on which the monstery is built, and you have also a view on the bird's island (Little skellig)
Watch for puffins and other sea birds ! Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1031/comment/6460/

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dbloke on Skellig Michael

Reaching the highest point of Sceilg Mhicíl could prove to be a tad tricky. Not least because there's a fence and a big sign saying "Keep Out" blocking access; but it's slightly more rocky, steeper and pointier than your average Mountain Views summit. Doesn't look like there's too much standing room on top either. Reaching the high point of the main part the island is no more easy. The guides from OPW (Office of Public Works) chase down anybody that strays too far from the monastery. They're not the toughest looking bunch, but I can imagine them chasing after you with a big stick should you disobey them. And maybe taking down your name. So, does climbing the 600 odd steps to the monastery count as having bagged it? Either way, the boat trip out to the rock is a blast, taking about an hour from Portmagee. Take a spare pair of underpants though. They hand out jackets and trousers on the boat which are useless. We got soaked through to the bone on the return trip. Linkback: mountainviews.ie/summit/1031/comment/3339/

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