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kernowclimber
2012-05-07 15:40:45
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| The infamous Sani Pass in the Drakensburg Mountains (Expand pics) |
Climbing to the top of the Kingdom in the Sky
Getting to the tiny landlocked Kingdom of Lesotho from Kwa Zulu Natal in South Africa is no easy matter. It entails a 9 km drive up the infamous unpaved Sani Pass that snakes its rocky, tortuous way up the edge of an escarpment of the Drankensburg Mountains. With features such as Suicide Bend and Haemorrhoid Hill you need a strong anal nerve and a 4X4 to even attempt it.
Buckshot rain drummed on our 4X4 as it lurched forward over deep gullies scoured by floods, through streams and bad potholes, loose rocks churning beneath the wheels. Mud and freezing temperatures made traction tricky on the numerous hairpin bends – at least we couldn’t see the horrendous death trap drop-offs in the mist. Martin did well to coax the 4X4 up this brutal pass where several vehicles were abandoned and another towed up the final 2 hairpins. Our relief was palpable when the border post and a group of wretched rondavels finally loomed through the cloud and billowing coal smoke at the top of the pass (2874m). A few beers in the nearby Highest Pub in Africa was just reward!
We awoke in our hut to a crimson dawn chasing away the stars. The glistening earth steamed as the sun gently released it from night’s icy grasp. Thatched mokhoro (stone huts) emitted clouds of blue smoke as we drove with our Basotho guide to a nearby village to climb Thabane Ntlenyana (3482m), the highest mountain in Southern Africa. At just over 22 kms, it is not a technical climb over treeless Afro-Montane grassland and a few river crossings only tricky in the rainy season, but it is at altitude. The route traverses a valley for over 4 kms before a steep climb up a ridge followed by a descent into another broad valley. A second ridge must be surmounted before the final pull up the shoulder of the mountain with its crown of rocks.
This is big sheep country, unfenced under expansive blue skies, domain of jackal buzzards. Basotho shepherds clad in balaclavas, woollen blankets and gumboots greet you warmly in rapid Sesotho, the silence broken only by the clanking of sheep bells. With winter approaching there was fresh snow on the higher slopes but the sun was warm on our backs. After 4 hrs we attained the summit, buffeted by strong winds. The Zulus call these mountains Quathlamba or ‘The Barrier of Spears’. We understood why as we gazed upon an army of emerald peaks, most over 3,000m, some topped with a pie crust of basaltic rock gleaming with snow. We watched mesmerised as cloud drifted languidly up over the edge of the dramatic Drakensburg Escarpment below, the inky blue ramparts of the mysterious Giant’s Castle floating between earth and sky beyond.
The descent took just under 3 hrs. You could climb this mountain without a guide but at 35 euro this was money well spent in such a poor community and we learnt much about Basotho culture. In all it took us 7.5 hours with around 1.5 hours of stops and we were back in the pub to celebrate before sunset. |
| It is an excellent.. by march-fixer (Show all posts) |
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Track
Dublin Mountains Way (adj) |
jrpcalvert a week ago.
GPS track for walk of Dublin Mountains Way from Tallaght to walk, Length:46.9km, Climb: 1015m, Area: Dublin/Wicklow (Ireland) Tibradden Mountain, Tw |
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Summit Comment
Barraboy Mountain SE Top: Come from the ridge |
thomas_g 2 weeks ago.
There is fairly good access from the main Barraboy ridge via a grassy gully which was a bit damp at the bottom. It's possible to traverse east to this top from the Beara way, but it looks like hor... |
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Track
Slieve Beagh |
Peter Walker a week ago.
A walk over the plateau to the E Top (County Monaghan's high walk, Length:8.7km, Climb: 195m, Area: Slieve Beagh, Fermanagh/S Tyrone (Ireland) Slieve |
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Forum: General
The “longest, hardest high level walk" |
Conor74 a week ago.
...in Ireland was how Paddy Dillon described a proposed walk across the tops of a number of the summits in his “The Mountains of Ireland”, stretching from the east end of the Mangertons and across... |
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Summit Summary
Barraboy Mountain SE Top: A quick run around the possible tops |
Collaborative entry Last edit by: thomas_g 2 weeks ago.
Barraboy SE is best reached Barraboy top. It's also possible to access from the east but it's a long damp walk from Priests leap.
Views are very good south to the sea. Knockboy is clearly visible... |
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Forum: Suggestions
Issue with Rising Summiteers list. |
simon3 6 days ago.
We received word that there were inconsistencies between the count of summits that a user had and position in the Rising Summiteers table. I have taken some remedial action and this issue should ... |
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Track
Inca Trail |
mcrtchly a week ago.
The classic 4 day (3 night) walk to Machu Picchu in Peru is walk, Length:34.5km, Climb: 2230m, Area: Peru, Cusco () |
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Summit Comment
Barraboy Mountain: Fine views over the bay |
thomas_g 2 weeks ago.
Parked at V93218 61229 (barely room for one car) beside Beara Way stile. Over the stile and up the track, I left the track and went straight for the peak, but it's probably best to follow the trac... |
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Forum: General
re Vulcano, Sicily |
simon3 a week ago.
Brenno, fascinating stuff. I have come to appreciate the sparse beauty of volcanic landscapes in the Canaries and can immediately relate to the rock shapes in your picture. I have an ambition to... |
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Track
Routeburn Track - Day 2 |
march-fixer a week ago.
Early start and had a good breakfast. Packed up and headed o walk, Length:5.2km, Climb: 404m, Area: New Zealand, Southland () |
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Summit Summary
Barraboy Mountain: Nicely perched above Glengarriff |
Collaborative entry Last edit by: thomas_g 2 weeks ago.
Barraboy is best reached from the col between Esk and Barraboy which can be reached from the Beara way. It's also possible to access from the east but it's a long damp walk from Priests leap.
Vie... |
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Track
Routeburn Track - Day 1 |
march-fixer a week ago.
This is the first day of one of the top walks in the world. walk, Length:13.3km, Climb: 802m, Area: New Zealand, Southland () |
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